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即使自2015年開始,Lanvin先後換過三位創意總監,但每當講起Lanvin,我們依然對掌舵十四年的Alber Elbaz念念不忘,因為在我們對該品牌的認知中,Lanvin應該是這個模樣。2016年,由法籍摩洛哥裔女設計師Bouchra Jarrar接手,十六個月後因意見分歧而離職。四天後,品牌宣佈法籍設計師Olivier Lapidus任接班人,但短短半年後再次離開。直至今年一月,Lanvin宣佈Bruno Sialelli擔任創意總監,成為品牌四年來的第三次人事變動。在此之前,Bruno Sialelli於Loewe男裝部門做設計師,亦曾為Nicolas Ghesquière和Alexander Wang時期的Balenciaga,以及Acne Studios和Paco Rabanne工作過。自Alber Elbaz離開後,Lanvin漸漸淡出人們的視線,Bruno Sialelli的加入無疑充滿極大壓力。
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今季2019秋冬選址於巴黎Musée de Cluny博物館舉辦,在浪漫的交響曲中,Lanvin的新形象漸漸浮現。清新的水手風格打開序幕,粉藍色和孔雀綠同時出現在男女模特兒身上,原來這是一場男女混合騷,Lanvin也可以跟中性掛鉤。接著是幾套不同形式的格紋設計,包括田園風格的披肩,或是粗格紋的羊毛大衣。一些卡通畫冊被印於絲質恤衫上,這對Lanvin而言是少見的,童趣的大象是來自於法國漫畫家Jean de Brunhoff的《Babar the Elephant》嗎?隨後還有一些舒適的睡衣、輕鬆暇意的度假裙裝、以及一件男女纏綿的插畫長裙。沒有過多華而不實的晚裝,卻多了實用易襯的日常著裝。
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看來Bruno Sialelli已經出盡心思為停滯不前的Lanvin帶來一些奇思妙想,他帶有一點點Loewe的影子,也加入半點中性元素。Lanvin的老顧客早已走得七七八八,新的Lanvin形象能否被接受,讓我們再等等Bruno Sialelli未來的想法。但只期望,Lanvin能夠安定下來。
你要記熟的生字是__
#水手 #田園 #插畫 #絲質