LOEWE SS2020 審美疲勞的解放

在繁花滿地的時裝周，很客易出現眼花撩亂的審美疲勞。剛好，早上舉行的Loewe 2020年春夏系列，Jonathan Anderson以日本自然簡約的美學示人，性感的紗裙和鏤空設計、碎花、飄帶元素，散發少女應有的清爽氣質，猶如喝一口日式煎茶，是那樣心曠神怡；但原來靈感的背後，竟然是來自一扇薄紗窗簾?

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Jodie Comer in ‘Either Way.’ A film by LOEWE, @Jonathan.anderson and #StevenMeisel. The new campaign for #LOEWE’s Spring Summer 2020 collection captures the Emmy and BAFTA-winning actor in her dressing room repeatedly enunciating the word “LOW-EV-AY” across the whole spectrum of emotions. Featuring @jodiemcomer Directed by @bennnorthoverdiary Art direction by @mmparisdotcom Styling by @benjaminbruno_ Make up by @patmcgrathreal Hair by @guidopalau Casting by @ashleybrokaw #LOEWESS20 #JodieComer

A post shared by LOEWE (@loewe) on Sep 25, 2019 at 3:40am PDT

Loewe一如既往，在開騷前先發布全新廣告，這次由時裝攝影師Steven Meisel操刀，捕捉Jodie Comer出台前在後台對鏡沉思的一刻。本以為今季主題有可能與「舞台」有關，然而會場的純白牆壁上，點綴大型盆栽和紫水晶，氣氛異常寧靜幽雅，模特兒緩緩行走的時候，窗簾同樣起伏不定。Jonathan Anderson表示：「這個想法是源自最近訪問日本期間，在旅館留意到自動窗簾而產生的概念。」

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Undulating curtains of varying opacity, a rich cream carpet, potted pampas grass and monolithic amethyst geodes created a pristine sanctuary to stage the #LOEWESS20 show. #LOEWE #ParisFashionWeek #PFW #Womenswear

A post shared by LOEWE (@loewe) on Sep 27, 2019 at 4:44am PDT

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#LOEWESS20 Womenswear show
Friday 27th September – 9:30am CEST
 Watch live on Instagram, YouTube and loewe.com #LOEWE

A post shared by LOEWE (@loewe) on Sep 26, 2019 at 10:10am PDT

情況就像在一個密室，窗外緻人的風景隨窗簾打開，早上簡淡的景色盡收眼底。因此今季服裝比以往脫俗，就算裸露，也是打開心扉的舒坦，性感而不俗。浪漫優雅的長裙、干練日常的風衣、挺闊神秘的長袍，加上幾何線條美的花邊蕾絲，剪裁技巧愈來愈純熟俐落。特別是經典的Shrunken Gate Bags，加了長長的流蘇，更加誘人。

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Backstage at the #LOEWESS20 Womenswear show. #LOEWE #ParisFashionWeek #Womenswear #PFW #BalloonBag

A post shared by LOEWE (@loewe) on Sep 27, 2019 at 1:21pm PDT

說實話，外國設計師運用日本元素已非一日之事，但從一件小物構成一個龐大的時裝系列，沒有一點創意的話，根本不能成事，這一次，Jonathan Anderson再次證明時尚神童的實力。（雖然他已經三十五歲。）另一方面，在全球經濟不景氣的情況下，時裝設計師漸漸減少繁複和精緻的設計，希望以簡約的單品、較實惠的價錢增加購買慾；不過，Loewe這次的化簡工程，其實內藏無限的細節，恍如日本工匠，從來都是一分錢一分貨，絕不「呃秤」。