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當下,誰比Dior創意總監Maria Grazia Chiuri更關注女性議題,她可不是一兩季便敷衍了事,而是逐漸把它塑造成當代Dior女性的代名詞,直至我們不再需要為女性爭取權益為止。2019秋冬場地佈滿女性裸體照片,這是義大利女藝術家Tomaso Binga的作品,透過肢體語言組合出法文”comme féministes”(女權主義),Tomaso Binga的男性化藝名本身就是在諷刺父權主義下的男性特權。
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Maria Grazia Chiuri今季翻查了50年代二戰後的歷史資料,重現那些被歷史遺忘的Teddy Girls形象。戰後社會經濟波動,女性工資比男性低,當時衍生出一群擁有獨立思想的低層女性,她們以中性獷打扮示人,留著quiff髮型,流連於音樂會或電影院等地,形成被社會視為異類的女性次文化。Maria Grazia Chiuri今季將Teddy Girls造型,結合50年代Dior的經典設計,融入品牌優雅的輪廓中。
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Dior先生於50年代經典的Dior Bar套裝,被Maria Grazia Chiuri修改了剪裁,多了份剛陽味道,創新的科技布料營造出蓬厚效果,卻是如此的柔軟。1949年的Miss Dior晚裝,在今季當代布料和工藝下再次重現。系列中的黑色皮外套,來自於當年Saint Laurent於Dior時期向法國次文化Blousons Noirs致敬的作品。
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時裝騷場地天花板的鏡子倒影出無數個Tomaso Binga的裸體照片,以及Maria Grazia Chiuri超越性別的作品。性別本該是平等的,我們甚麼時候可以不再需要討論性別?
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#TeddyGirls #50年代 #漁夫帽 #英倫風格 #漁夫帽 #格仔 #貓眼鏡 #SisterhoodIsPower